Distance 40km.  Elevation Gain 721m (2365’)

The rather harsh 7.30 alarm interrupted our booze-fuelled sleep.  The thought of cycling seemed low on the agenda with the current weather situation; incessant rain and poor visibility.  Numerous phone calls ens
ued and the assembling of the bikes was delayed for an hour.  This proved to be the right decision and the Tour De Corse duly started at 11am sharp with no rain and clearing skies.  The whole group started together under the cries of “Bon Route!” and “Bon Courage!” from Lorraine Croome.

The pre-planned first day was a relative jolly of 40km along the D80 coast road with a little over 700m of climbing to the magical port of Macinaggio, on the extreme north side of the island.  After about 25km of very sociable riding, and several Kodak moments, Surgeon Richard Brain suggested an additional loop that went inland at Marine de Porticciolo and returned 6 km further up the coast at Santa Severa.  As this detour only appeared to be just over an inch on the route map, everyone agreed and so off we rode, eager to experience our first proper climb.  An hour later we were at the summit of the D180, some 350m above sea level, with most of us regretting having put the boot in so early!  Once again the cameras were snap-happy at the nearby Mont Castello and Mont di St. Angelo.  Half way back to the coast the sun came out and lunch was enjoyed with some of the group opting for pizza at the appropriately named Piazza.

Once our appetites were suitably satisfied we continued downhill on the D180 at a fair pace to the coastal port of Santa Severa. A leisurely 10k home-straight on the coastal D80 followed and the majority of the group arrived at Hotel Ricardu, in the ancient port of Macinagio at 4.30pm.  The extra loop had made the total ride for the day 68km and our group averaged 24.5kmh, very comfortable.  Soon after, the whole group were bathing in the nearby gin-clear waters of the Mediterranean, reminiscing of the most enjoyable first day’s cycling.    This was a perfect end to the day. However, Colin Tyrer (King of the Cols) may beg to differ; he didn’t seem to enjoy being held under water for so long!!  Little did we know how hard the rest of the trip would be.

The evening meal of charcuterie, fish in a curry sauce and flan (which had the consistency of the average brake block) went down pretty well although the cycling sauvignon improved on this.  Master of the after-dinner speech, John Keast, summed up the funnies of the day and the yellow tabard was duly presented to former international triathlete Catherine Powrie for keeping quiet about Neil getting lost on the way to the airport and for not realising her position in the pecking order when riding with the elite group!  A little later Richard Brain polished off the leftover red wine and the Devonians retired to their beds soon after midnight.

Distance 171km. Elevation Gain 2633m (8639’)

After a brief continental breakfast the group set off at varying times from 7am to 8.30am depending on their sex, cycling ability and size of their hangover.  The writer chose to set off at 8.30am with (snoring) roommate, Nick Read.  At 9am we arrived at the top of the Col Saint Nicholas, a climb of just over 300m, with the elite group comprising of Richard Oram, Anthony Nicholls, Nick Keast, Neil Tubbs and Colin Tyrer, a few seconds behind.  Shortly after, the swelled group of 7 joined forces with the Dad’s Army group of Private Pike (Richard Brain), Captain Manwaring (Gerald Woodley) and Wilson (John Hill) for the climb of the Col de Serra, 365m above sea level.  Magnificent panoramic views of the nearby island of Giraglia and coastal port of Centuri were enjoyed in the beautiful Mediterranean sunshine. 

We stayed on the D80 coastal road for the next 40k, absorbing the wonderful sea views thanks to the lack of traffic.  The villages of Pino and Minerbio were a thoroughfare to the old village of Nonza where a most enjoyable stop for fresh peaches and bananas was made. Magnificent views from a height of over 150m above sea level of the nearby Golfe de St Florent were admired from this sentry-like headland where the houses lined the 100m cliffs, faced seaward as if hypnotised by the open space.

Doctors David and Suzanne Rampersad made the small climb to the nearby church of St Julie and enjoyed spectacular views of the entire headland and the unusual black sandy beaches below.  Once the brevet cards were stamped the group, now scattered over some 40k, made the descent to the coastal resort of St Florent.  Apparently, St Florent is the most lively fashionable resort on the island.  Funnily enough one or two of us couldn’t help but notice the extra glamour roaming around, with Gucci shades onboard!  

Lunch was devoured in the shade as the early afternoon sun became unbearably hot, although few complaints were made.  Once our stomachs were full, the elite group, including the writer, decided to partake in a 30km detour and encompass the climbing of an extra col.  However, in a mix of high levels of testosterone and banter, the wrong road was taken and the severe Col de San Stefano was conquered instead!  The col, at 400m high, was climbed at an average of 24kmh with none of the group willing to be dropped.  The writer later found out that 3 of us were hanging in there for grim death- what a relief that it wasn’t just me!

Following the error, we decided to retrace our steps back to St Florent where we rejoined the D81 and became back markers.  Once again, the pace was pretty unsociable as we passed through the wilderness (desert) and soon climbed over 350m to Petaiolu, where a medjool date break was much needed.  Next was the final climb of the day, bypassing the busy L’Ile Rousse and turning left on the D151.  At 509m above sea level our small posse sampled gorgeous sea views of the Golfe de Calvi from the col of the same name.  A main road descent followed and we arrived at our hotel at 6.30pm in the port of Calvi, where an Italian exhuberance was very evident.  Needless to say we were worn out after climbing over 2600m! 

That night we enjoyed a carb-fuelled pasta meal at a nearby restaurant. Most were counting sheep by 10 0’clock and I was close behind, but not before my new assos bib shorts were washed and hung out on a nearby fig tree to air!  Let it be noted that Neil Tubbs was presented with the now trampy maillot jaune for his schoolboy map reading error!   Additionally, he received a bright blue wig with pigtails to be worn at the following evening dinner!

Distance 188km.  Elevation Gain 2880m (9449’)

After a hasty continental breakfast, and one or two headache tablets, we self-applied lashings of Sudocrem to soothe the saddle rashes ready for the initial ups and downs.  Initially we followed the coastal D81 where, due to the very poor surface on the downhill sections, any loose fillings were surely spat out by the roadside.  After 33k we crossed a bridge over the river Marsolino and immediately the pace was upped by 5kmh due to the new smooth tarmac surface.  We found ourselves in the middle of the ‘U’ shaped Vallee du Fango, carved out millions of years ago by a huge glacier, and then climbed the first col of the day, the Col de Palmerella, an acsent of more than 400m, over 13km.  Here we met the back-up crew of Antonie and Basil to replenish our endless appetites for water, bananas, dates, apricots, biscuits etc.  Once again the beautiful views were admired of the Golfe de Girolata, some 10k away. 

We free-wheeled a winding descent down the sides of the cliffs where even coaches struggled to keep up, so narrow was the route.  Forty-five minutes later we arrived in the old fishing village of Porto which claims to have the most beautiful bay in the world.  If not then it must surely be a contender with its deep cove which is overlooked by limestone headlands; headlands which are surely among the island’s true wonders.

I then decided to join Colin Tyrer for a blitz up the 425m high Bocca di Ghineparu to work up a healthy appetite for lunch (his idea, not mine).  The entrancing charm of this stunning winding coastal road (D81) made it a truly significant tourist attraction and, on numerous occasions, we were forced to dodge parked coaches, trigger-happy holidaymakers and over-eager van drivers.  At the end of the ridge we arrived at Piana, where huge needle-like cliffs plunged directly into the calm, crystal-clear water over 300m below.  A delicious pasta and pancetta lunch served with chips and a green salad was gobbled up by our group of ten.  A tip was not left since our hosts refused to fill up our water bottles, despite abstracting £150 from our wallets!

After lunch we retraced our steps to Porto, turned right at the bridge and joined the D84 for the longest climb of the tour, the Col de Verghio. This was a 1477m climb from sea level, over 35k and well over the height of Ben Nevis!  We refuelled just over half way up in the picture postcard village of Evisa.

During the descent to Calacuccia the route went through the Selunca limestone gorges in classic ‘V’ shaped valleys where the wild pigs had to be negotiated.  Unfortunately,  Kidney Consultant, Anthony Nicholls, failed in this regard and hit a pig full-on.  He came off his bike, breaking both his helmet and his ego.  Readers will be pleased to know that, after a worrying couple of hours in hospital, the pig made a full recovery.

The D18 was then rejoined at the Castirla bridge and we progressed a little over 20k to the untamed, rugged and beautiful town of Corte.  Corte is a focal point for the whole island and now a student town.

The hotel was easily located in the town centre and we soon collected our gear, showered, hand-washed the assos and raced downstairs to the bar for a local Petra beer, or three.  The evening meal was particularly rewarding with endless lashings of mixed vegetable and bean soup (4 refills in Big Jim Pyne’s case).  This was followed by chicken and potatoes, but with no vegetables!  The dessert, a cake type biscuit cooked on a horse chestnut leaf, was a real treat and a local speciality.

Distance 181km.  Elevation Gain 3452m (11326’)

Once again we could appreciate why parts of Corsica are designated World Heritage Sites.  Many of the views each day seemed as breathtaking as anywhere else in the world.  After a very basic breakfast, the small groups of riders departed between 7.15am – 8.15am below a perfect, cloudless sky and immediately got to grips with the 327m climb to the Col de Bellagranajo.  We then stuck to the N193, winding through valleys and clearings before the villages of Venaco and Vivario suddenly appeared on the horizon, clinging to the slopes at the heart of the Corsican Alps.

The main climb of the day duly faced us: a further 661m to the summit of what looked like a mountain in the French Alps, the Col de Sorba.  Superlatives could not describe the view from the top, and the majority of that climb, that could be seen before us.  It was breathtaking to look upon the U-shaped valley, carved from a once existing glacier.  Cortes was sat neatly on the glacier’s terminal moraine, over 40k away in the distance.  This view was truly a geographer’s dream.

The downhill section was a little tricky with ongoing repairs being made to the road and serious caution had to be taken. However, this did not seem to bother a certain Mr Nicholls who descended like the devil possessed! 

Once our cards were stamped at Ghisoni, we climbed through the Marmano Forest 500m and up to the top of the Col de Verde, at 1289m above sea level.  Lunch was scoffed at the nearby log cabin; for me this consisted of pork chops marinated in olive oil and thyme which was freshly barbecued on the wood fire next to us.  Lance Corporal Nick Keast and I wolfed them down before anyone got a look in!

At such altitude, a cold descent followed through the heavily wooded San Pietro di Verde forest eventually ending up at Zicavo where, once again, our cards were stamped.  We then joined the D83 where the relatively small Cols de Granaccia and de Saint Georges were conquered. Subsequently we flew down the most amazing sweeping descent of the main road (N196) with virtually no traffic and a perfect ‘Tour de France’ quality tarmac surface.  Speeds of up to 60kmh were reached with no potential trauma- very unusual for cyclists.

The right hand turn at Cauro made way for the gradual climb, via 2 Cols to Bastelica on the D27 in the baking afternoon sun.  Colin Tyrer and I shared these climbs and our thoughts turned to Richard Brain who, the day before was as hot as a glass-blower’s arse and had almost overheated  at L’Ile de Rousse.  Little did we know that he had been cooling down by dunking his head in the nearby ‘run off’ stream at the side of the road.  The ‘Hill Climb’ specialist (and Birthday Boy) James Jackson then challenged Nick Keast to a climbing duel in the 30 degree heat in an attempt to catch front runners; Tyrer and yours truly.  Jackson won the contest but to our defence we were in the middle of photographing the nearby mountainous backdrop! 

The most delicious, refreshing ice cream was demolished in the 30 degree heat in a very accommodating bar at the upper end of Bastelica.  Water bottles were recharged, cards stamped, and the 42k home straight to the picturesque port of Ajaccio began.

The highlight of this downhill section was the magnificent view of the lake at Tolla from a height of some 200m.  The decent continued through Ocana and Bastelicaccia on the D3 which, at some points, was only a car width’s wide despite shear drops on the south side!

In the final run-in to Corsica’s capital and lively commercial centre, Ajaccio, we were joined by former Devon County swimmer, Charlotte Tubbs, and former marathon runner John Keast. We were also accompanied by approximately 10 others to form a peleton for the last 10k on the very busy N 193.  During the evening meal, in the Hotel Spunta Di Mare, MC John Keast awarded the maillot jaune and blue wig to Chris and Sureka Bower for their courageous effort on their tandem.  They arrived back just before dark and did not seem too tired, having climbed over 11000 feet sat in saddle for over 10 hours. No wonder Chris had saddle sores the size of his thumb nail!

It must also be noted that Jim Pyne and Michael Lee had to negotiate the last and most dangerous 25k of the ride with borrowed lights.  Later when quizzed about their late arrival, mention was made that Jim did not like to miss any opportunities of a potentially great photograph!  Luckily for Michael, roommate Mike Baker had already taken his overnight bag to the room and run him a bath!  Also, after burning up some 6500 calories that day, Sue Tubbs was so tired that she could not summon the strength to turn the key of her hotel room!  Luckily, friendly neighbour, Nick Read lent a helping hand.